Eyelash and eyebrow serums have moved beyond traditional oils and plant extracts toward multi-peptide formulations, and one peptide is appearing in more of them than most others: Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17. A 2025 survey by the Danish Environmental Protection Agency of 44 lash and brow serums found that 82% contained one or more peptides and that Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 was listed in 20 of the 44 products. In 2026, the ingredient is drawing attention as brands continue developing prostaglandin-free lash and brow formulations built around cosmetic peptides and conditioning ingredients. It is a cosmetic conditioning ingredient, not a prescription drug and not a prostaglandin analogue.
Why Are Prostaglandin-Free Lash Serums Receiving More Attention?
Prostaglandins and their analogues are a distinct category from cosmetic peptides. Bimatoprost 0.03% - the only FDA-approved treatment specifically indicated for eyelash hypotrichosis - is a prescription medication, not an over-the-counter cosmetic raw material. Its use has documented side effects including eyelid pigmentation, conjunctival hyperemia, iris pigmentation and dry eyes.
In this context, brands are developing everyday lash and brow products around ingredients perceived as gentler: peptides, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and plant extracts, often combined. The Danish EPA survey underlines how widespread peptide use has become. Beyond the 82% figure, chemical analysis by UPLC-MS2 of 19 purchased serums showed the peptides present at low concentrations - the highest measured level of any peptide was approximately 60 µg/g (0.006%). This matters to formulators: a peptide can be a frequent, low-dose ingredient in finished products, which is exactly why raw-material identity and active content matter when sourcing.
What Is Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17?
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is a synthetic lipopeptide: a myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) chain conjugated to a pentapeptide sequence, commonly listed as Myr-Lys-Leu-Ala-Lys-Lys-NH₂ (Myr-KLAKK-NH₂). Its INCI name is Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, with CAS 959610-30-1 listed in regulatory sources. It is used mainly in lash and brow conditioning formulas.
| Property | Information |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 |
| CAS No. | 959610-30-1 |
| Sequence | Myr-Lys-Leu-Ala-Lys-Lys-NH₂ |
| Molecular Formula | C41H81N9O6 |
| Molecular Weight | 796.1 g/mol |
| Typical Cosmetic Use | Lash and brow conditioning formulations |
As with other cosmetic peptides, the supplied form matters. A raw powder, a pre-diluted solution and a branded complex are different commercial materials and cannot be replaced by equal weight. For example, the branded blend SymPeptide® Xlash is a liquid commercial system whose INCI is listed as Glycerin, Water, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17; a generic Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 powder is a different material with a different active basis.
Why Is Myristoylation Used in Cosmetic Peptides?
Myristoylation adds a 14-carbon saturated fatty chain to the peptide. In cosmetic peptides, fatty-chain modification can influence physical and chemical properties - lipophilicity, solubility behavior and how the molecule interacts with lipid-containing environments - and it is one of the design choices used across palmitoylated and myristoylated peptides. What it does not mean is a guaranteed mechanism such as "penetrating the hair follicle"; the practical behavior still depends on the exact material, the formulation and the delivery system.
How Is It Used in Lash and Brow Products?
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 appears across several product formats:
- Leave-on eyelash serums
- Eyebrow serums
- Lash conditioners
- Mascara primers
- Post-extension conditioning products
The common theme is a leave-on, eye-area product in which a low-dose peptide sits alongside other conditioning ingredients.
What Does the Available Evidence Actually Show?
Ingredient-level data from raw-material suppliers focuses mainly on keratin-related mechanisms and nutrient-support effects on follicle cells. The Danish EPA report, citing supplier information, describes Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 as promoting keratin production and nutrient absorption in hair-follicle cells, and notes that results have been claimed within about two weeks for a branded blend.
Finished-product observations of lash appearance improvement exist, but most finished serums contain several active ingredients, so results cannot be attributed to a single peptide. The 2024 comprehensive review of eyelash serums in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology makes the evidence boundary explicit: bimatoprost 0.03% remains the only FDA-approved treatment specifically indicated for eyelash hypotrichosis, while non-prostaglandin ingredients, including cosmetic peptides, have a much more limited formal evidence base. The review notes that such ingredients "show promising data" but require more studies in eyelash serum use. A separate study cited in the review found undeclared prostaglandin analogues in some online-purchased serums - one reason the prostaglandin-free positioning has gained credibility among formulators.
Key Formulation Trends for 2026
- Prostaglandin-free positioning as a stated product position
- Multi-peptide combinations rather than single-ingredient claims
- Fragrance-free, eye-area-friendly formulas
- Lightweight, water-based serum textures
- Minimal-irritation formulation approaches
- Lash and brow dual-use products
- Precise applicator packaging (fine brush or mascara-type applicator)
What Should B2B Buyers Verify?
- Full peptide sequence and terminal form (amide or free acid)
- Acetate or non-acetate material status
- HPLC purity
- Peptide assay (active basis)
- Molecular weight confirmation
- MS identity report
- Water and counter-ion content
- Microbiological specification
- COA, TDS and MSDS
- Storage and shipping conditions
Responsible Cosmetic Claims
Recommended phrasings:
- Supports lash and brow conditioning
- Helps improve the appearance of fuller-looking lashes
- Suitable for peptide-based lash serum development
- Supports stronger-looking, well-conditioned eyelashes
Avoid:
- Clinically proven to grow eyelashes
- Replaces prescription bimatoprost
- Permanently increases eyelash follicles
- Treats eyelash loss
- Guaranteed results in seven days
2026 Outlook
Peptides will continue to be a central direction for prostaglandin-free lash and brow formulas. Formulation safety and periorbital tolerance are likely to matter more than stacking ingredients, and B2B buyers will increasingly verify real active content and batch-level documentation rather than relying on supplier claims. No single raw material should be expected to carry an entire finished-product efficacy claim on its own.
FAQ
What is Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 used for?
It is a synthetic myristoylated pentapeptide used in leave-on eyelash and eyebrow conditioning serums, lash conditioners, mascara primers and post-extension care.
Is it a prostaglandin analogue?
No. Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is a cosmetic peptide, not a prostaglandin or prostaglandin analogue. It should not be presented as a replacement for prescription ingredients such as bimatoprost.
Is Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 suitable for eyebrow serums?
Yes. The Danish EPA survey found it in lash, brow and combination serum products, and it is used in both eyelash and eyebrow conditioning formats.
Can it be supplied as a powder?
Yes. Like other cosmetic peptides, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 can be supplied as a raw powder, as a pre-diluted solution, or within a branded complex. These forms are not interchangeable by equal weight.
What documents should cosmetic brands request?
Batch-specific COA, HPLC and MS reports, peptide assay, TDS, MSDS, microbiological specification, residual solvent information and stability data, plus storage and shipping guidance for the supplied form.
Looking for Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 powder for cosmetic formulation research?
HDM Biotech provides batch-specific COA, analytical documentation, sample support and bulk supply options according to the confirmed product specification.
Whatsapp & Mobile: +8619991242181
Email:sales@hdmbio.com
References
- Danish Environmental Protection Agency. Survey and risk assessment of eyelash and eyebrow serums. 2025. https://www2.mst.dk/Udgiv/publications/2025/05/978-87-7038-999-0a.pdf
- Eyelash serums: A comprehensive review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2024. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.16278